Rock Solid Nerves: Megan's Strong Mind Story

‘Success and failure do not exist in the present, only effort and action exist.’ – The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers, Arno Ilgner.

Megan’s experience with Strong Mind reminds us climbers that fear is usually a problem with strategy, not with the climber. This year she took part in Hazel Findlay’s mental training course. This climber and mental health advocate questions why we train our fingers but we do not train our minds. She offers a course which teaches you the fundamentals of mental training alongside practical tools you can use in the moment to give more clarity. The Strong Mind course, for Megan, has reframed negative mental attitudes as a trainable skill rather than a character flaw, and the results were quietly dramatic.

Megan is a seasoned rock climber. Having lived in two of the UK’s top climbing destinations she has developed an enviable repertoire in both trad and sport climbing. Her time spent nestled in the heart of the Borrowdale Valley exposed her to some tasty, world-revered Lakeland rock. Whilst her recent move to Llanberis in North Wales has pushed progression further into extreme trad grades. Her climbing sights have since expanded again with a van build taking her and partner Ewan into France and beyond. 

Her enthusiasm for the rugged landscape of the UK is unwavering. Unabashed on rocky descents when fell running, unperturbed by dreadful weather, and always the pragmatic adventurer. This mental block was out of character for Megan and she wanted rid. 

Through an interview with her, I have gained understanding about what the course had to offer and what benefit it has given to her climbing experience.

What brought you to the course? 

It was a much awaited three-month long sport climbing trip to South East Asia which made Megan recognise how undeniable her fear was as, despite climbing practically everyday, she failed to grow in confidence. This fear was starting to eat away at her love for climbing, and she did not like it.

It appealed as it offered a holistic lens on the issue of underperformance as a direct result of mental challenges. It aimed to teach mental tools that applied to, and beyond, climbing creating a gentle, evidence-backed push towards treating anxiety as a skill to manage, not an enemy to expel. What landed for Megan was less a single epiphany than a string of practical nudges.

What form did the course take?

The course is offered online which allowed Megan to begin it whilst still out in Vietnam. Content was released every one to two weeks, with a mix of group discussions plus weekly activities that encouraged practice into the real world.

Group conversations normalised the experience of fear and cut through the myth that ‘real’ climbers are fearless. It built a community bond with fellow attendees as well as an increased self-assurance.

Weekly homework, such as filming falls and watching them back, rendered the imagined horrors of a whip noticeably smaller and more manageable. With individual feedback and analysis of fall clips given by instructors it proved especially beneficial for Megan as she was able to separate dramatic inner feeling from the actual mechanics of a fall. She then was able to understand her ‘moment of struggle’ and witness her change in climbing style. This type of instruction which dealt with each climber as an individual, without generic guidance, made all the difference to personal progress.

The course offers a variety of topics which allowed Megan to tailor it specifically to her needs. Some vary from more everyday issues, others have a sole climbing focus. The refreshing, holistic nature of the course meant that discussion of the effect of menstrual cycles on mental tolerance was also an included topic.

This helpfully connected mind and body which is a key intention of this course. On a personal level, it confirmed Megan’s suspicions of different performances during her cycle, and allowed her to grant herself grace. Varied ability was not an indication of her respectability as a climber.

What were your takeaways from the course? 

Some results were immediate, like the confidence to meet and belay new partners whilst still in Vietnam. She was able to openly share struggles which formed the foundation for new belaytionships. New perspectives on her sport began to sink in, and she was able to enjoy her trip in other, unexplored ways.

Back home in North Wales, she spent the summer leading bolder trad routes, more comfortably taking whips on pro, and enjoying climbing more than she had in years. Grades shifted upward, but more importantly Megan’s self-worth decoupled from these grades. Her enjoyment of the process and skilful movement became a better metric.

Is it for you?

If you’re tempted by the course, know that it’s not magic. It’s an applied tool box which teaches you mindset shifts, breath work, exposure practice, CBT-inspired (cognitive behavioural therapy) noticing techniques, and community support to aid progress. For climber’s stuck on a plateau, the program shows you how to build confidence rather than waiting for it.

Megan’s story is quietly uplifting as through small personal experiments, community love, and a clearer map of mind and body she turned frustration into forward motion. If your head is getting in the way of your climbing, this course makes a persuasive case that you can teach it a better script and get back to having fun on the rock.